Control Trends by Stromquist

One of the really cool things about direct coupled actuators like those made by companies like Belimo, Honeywell, Johnson, Siemens, and Invensys TAC is that they can be usually be inter changed. Meaning if you have a 35 inch pound Belimo direct mount actuator, but there is not a Belimo 35 inch-pound direct mount actuator to be found in your city, you should be able to replace it with a Honeywell 35 inch pound direct mount actuator, or a Johnson 35 inch-pound direct mount actuator. Although each brand of actuator has it’s pros and cons they all for the most part  close in quality and value. So if you have a job that has all Belimo and you need a replacement Belimo actuator but your local distributor does not have one on the shelf and you cannot wait for a Belimo actuator to be shipped then most likely you can find a Continue Reading

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Belimo is offering a really cool new linkage the Belimo ZG- JSL Belimo has created the quickest install designed with ease in mind. The ZG-JSL linkage is designed to facilitate the attachment of select Belimo actuators to a damper’s jackshaft. The unique open ended design allows the linkage to clamp on to any part of a jackshaft measuring from 1/2″ to 1.05″ in diameter.Saves time and cost

The Belimo ZG-JSL linkage simplifies typical installations and eliminates the difficulties where jackshaft bearings are hard to access. By improving the method of installing actuators onto jackshafts, the installer saves on installation time translating into a cost savings. The quicker the install, the sooner the installer can move on to the next project. Now with the Belimo ZG-JSL linkage all jackshaft installations will only take minutes!Ideal for tight spaces Continue Reading

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Starting up a variable frequency drive can be as much an art as it is a science, and because a variable frequency drive can save so much money, you are going to see them on just about any project you bid. When you are estimating a job, how much do you add for the variable frequency drive? The price of a drive is easy to figure (the price is the price), so conventional wisdom would say go with the low price drive. But is that really the smart move?
Most of the pros I know say no. Continue Reading

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Stromquist & Company is a stocking distributor of all types of Variable Frequency Drives in Atlanta Georgia. Since we stock different brands of Variable Frequency Drives from the Honeywell Variable Frequency Drive to the Johnson Variable Frequency Drive to the Teco Westinghouse Variable Frequency Drive we are able to look for which product provides the best value for our customer when it comes to their Variable Frequency Drive needs. In this video you will see how to save money on your variable frequency drive project by determining if you need a by pass on your variable frequency drive project. 
As this video shows in most cases you will not need a bypass and this can and will save you big dollars on your variable frequency drive projects. Variable Frequency Drives are a great way to save money by reducing the speed of motors and pumps when they do not need to run at full capacity. To get an idea of how much you can save check out this variable frequency drive energy calculator from Honeywell. You also should check out this video on how to set up you Variable Frequency Drive with a 0-10 volt input. For all your variable frequency drive needs in Georgia and Florida contact Stromquist & Company

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Over the years I have been asked how to properly pipe a steam heat exchanger. I developed the drawing below to help answer this question. There are other piping additions that can be added according to your needs, and this drawing does not cover all the additions but should serve as a good workable starting point. A few points to remember…1. A vacuum breaker and/or vent should be installed…. 2. The steam trap should be properly sized for the amount of the pounds per hour steam capacity of the heat exchanger, and the trap should be sized for the pressure at the trap not for the inlet pressure of the control valve…3. A properly sized relief valve must be installed on the hot water outlet side to protect the heat exchanger from possible damage due to volumetric expansion.

I hope this answers some questions you may have. If you need more answers please call Stromquist and Company at 1-800-241-9471, and we would be happy to finalize an answer for you.

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Even with all the great new technology in HVAC controls, there are still many pneumatic buildings out there.  If you happen to be someone who has to work on pneumatic controls, you know it can be frustrating when you have a problem with the system.  Here’s a good troubleshooting procedure from Jerry Condiff, the instructor who teaches a great pneumatics class for us here at Stromquist every year.  Jerry has been in the HVAC controls field for over 30 years and really knows pneumatics.

Pneumatics Troubleshooting Procedure

Start at the thermostat or controller.  Check to see if the thermostat will put out a high pressure by turning the set point to its minimum setting.  The pressure should be high on the output gauge.  If not, try adjusting the calibration screw. 

If no air noise is distinguished, check to see if air is present in the supply line into the thermostat (this will require removing the stat from the mounting bracket). If supply air is present but there is no air bleed noise or output pressure, the restrictor is plugged or the nozzle at the bleed port is dirty.  Check and clean the nozzle or clean out the restrictor.

If there is no pressure output but air bleed noise is present, check for an air leak behind the mounting bracket.  Check the air hoses that are connected to the mounting base for deterioration.  Check Honeywell stats for broken plastic air nipples in the back of the mounting base.

If no air leaks are found, plug the branch line of the stat with a jumper hose connected from the supply line to the main or supply to the stat.  If pressure builds on the branch gauge, the branch line of the controlled device (valve, damper or pressure switch) has a leak.  You may also make up a tool consisting of two 5/32 lines and a barbed gauge tee and a 30# pressure gauge.  Connect one end of the hose to supply and the other to the branch port on the mounting base. If you do not read any pressure on the gauge, the branch line has a leak.  If pressure builds, the stat is bad and will need to be replaced.  Use a squeeze bulb and gauge to check controlled device diaphragm for leaks.  If no leaks are present, the branch line hose has a leak and needs to be replaced. 

This procedure may not cover every potential issue you run into with your pneumatic system, but it should at least be a good start, and I hope you find it helpful.  Happy troubleshooting!

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You can’t get heat and your troubleshooting skills (hopefully learned at a Stromquist & Company training class) have lead you to the conclusion that your gas valve will have to be replaced. Being the great technician that you are, you write down all the information and part numbers of the furnace or heater you are working on and head off to see Bob, Jerry, or Mark at the Stromquist counter to get a new valve.

After driving across town you are less than happy when you are told that the replacement gas valve cannot be determined by the furnace or heater number. Although there are hundreds of gas heater and furnace manufacturers, there are only three major controls companies that make gas valves for these companies: Honeywell, White Rodgers, and Robertshaw. What makes it tricky is that these three companies will make and sell these valves as OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts for all these different heater companies and will put different part numbers on them. In some cases, the valves even function differently.

Why would a manufacturer want a different part number? For one thing it makes it very difficult for you to get a replacement valve at your local distributor. Think about it, these companies are in business to make money and if you have to come back to them for your replacement parts, they are able to sell more products. The problem with this is that very few of them have local inventory, and since they are manufacturers instead of wholesalers, quick shipping is usually not one of their skill sets. So you have to wait, which is usually not an option when your heat is not working. In a few cases the valve is built differently and you have no choice but to go back to the manufacturer, which usually results in you paying higher prices and dealing with longer lead times.

The good news is that with the right information, your local distributors like Stromquist & Company can provide you with the right gas valve at the right price. To make sure you get the right valve, either take the bad valve out and bring it into your local distributor or use your camera and take pictures of the valve, making sure to get the part numbers in the picture. Make sure to watch Mark’s video, Replacing Gas Valves On Furnances and Hot Water Heaters.

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